I began both the fishing and tying of small flies last winter and, during the occasions where I either take a break from the small streams during trout season, or when I’m forced onto the lower main stem during winter, I rarely fish anything bigger than a size #20 (with the exception of when the grayling are hard on the bottom and only a heavily weighted nymph will do).

I set out to fish smaller flies predominantly as to set myself a new challenge during the times in which I fish the main stem of the river Taff, and where the trout and grayling tend to be much pickier regarding their choice of food. Apart from the challenge of fishing these smaller flies, the fact stands that tiny midges (such as chironomids and other non-biting midges) are present in the majority of most streams and rivers throughout the UK all year round; so why is it that this form of fishing is so seldom practiced?

Caënis (Anglers’ Curse): no bigger than a #28 in the below picture

In the winter I spend most of my spare time fishing for the grayling of the lower river Taff. True, grayling can be a little picky when surface feeding, but the general size of the blue wings that hatch in the short periods of warm sunshine are generally no bigger than a size #18; a size #20 imitation is usually greeted with much more confidence than that of a larger pattern.

I love caddis. There, I said it. In fact, I’m quite fascinated by them. Second place then, must go to the blue winged olive, as (for a ‘creepy crawley’) it’s rather quite beautiful. Last winter saw me focusing more and more on the blue wings. When gentle sub-surface sips were spotted (or in my case, guessed at), I’d switch to a CDC emerger/chironomid pattern which was shown to me by the immensely experienced Mr Meadows a few years prior, and has been a firm favourite of mine since. This basic but deadly emerger can, like a Griffith’s Gnat, range anything from #20 – #26 and smaller.

Griffith’s Gnats were employed on the days where tiny midges were hatching, or when midges were mating in their customary messy clusters; these small clumps of ‘mess’ would be gently sipped from the surface film on cold winter evenings with a quiet confidence.

It didn’t stop at dries and emergers. When there seemed to be no surface activity, and where the water/fish weren’t too deep, I’d prospect riffley runs with a #20 bead head Copper John trailed a couple of feet behind a larger, more buoyant and visible parachute/Klinkhåmer (in fact, this is one of the rare times on the main stem where I’d use a larger fly).

The small flies worked in the spring, summer, and autumn, and are working well again this winter, even during the sharp cold mornings we are now beginning to see. Of course, they aren’t always the best choice of fly, as there are certain situations where a larger fly is the only way forward. Each fly has it’s place I suppose, just as we do.

Over the last few months, I’ve spent more and more time reading Andy Baird’s fantastic blog, Small Fly Funk. Andy is one of the true small fly masters, both in their fishing and in their tying, and his wonderful website exudes this experience easily. It was because of his blog that I finally bit the proverbial bullet and purchased a pack of #32 TMC 518s, a hook I’d been fascinated with after reading the chapter ‘32s!’ in Ed Engles inspirational ‘Tying Small Flies’. To be honest, before reading Andy’s blog I was held in a state of disbelief when I thought of this truly miniscule hook, however, and because of Andy, his spent spinner pattern (consisting of tying thread, two micro fibbets, and Midge Wing) is now a firm full-time member of my midge box, and the smallest fly I’ve ever caught a fish on.

I must admit that a hi-vis post, size #24 parachute is fairly easy to see from quite some distance (especially thanks to advances in polypropylene floating yarn such as Tiemco’s amazing fluroesent pink Aero Dry yarn), but a size #32 spinner, #26 midge pupae, or even a #26 Griffith’s Gnat are practically impossible to see at anything greater than 10’. Add a low light setting to the equation and you’re kinda’ screwed. To get over this hurdle, I’ll trail the tiny flies off a larger dry fly using the method I’ve mentioned above (New Zealand method). If the ‘indicator’ fly twitches, or a rise form appears in it’s general vicinity, strike, but for goodness sake, do it GENTLY!

Gently does it! After visibility, the other main obstacle is tippet diameter, and of course, this brings a few problems of it’s own to the table. For one, anything too thick/stiff will not only prevent your imitation from drifting correctly, but you won’t be able to thread your tippet through the eyes of these tiny flies. Generally speaking (and for patterns smaller than #24) you’ll be needing specialist tippet. Tippet that is fine enough to be threaded through a micro fly’s eye usually means any sort of violent/’movie’ strike will result in you looking like an idiot a lost fish. For the REALLY small stuff, I use Varivas’ Super Midge tippet in 9X (1.66lb breaking strain!). I can’t detail just how delicate this stuff is. If you catch a tree, screw a cast or, God forbid, hook a fish, you’ll need a new tippet, as any amount over-stressing applied to the midge tippet will create a nice, tight, springy noodle. Unfortunately, if you want your midge to sit correctly, you’ll need to dance with the devil. For ‘larger’ small flies (#20’s for example), 7X (or even 6X) will suffice, and will give you much more breathing space in regards to playing fish of a decent size; if you’re using 9X it’ll generally be due to the fact that you’re after one picky sucker!

Apart from the usual gigantic sizes involved in the make-up of a true Klinkhåmer which I use on the small streams for it’s high floatability through the fast, tumbling riffles, the flies I’ve used this season on the main stem have been no larger than a size #20, but below is a selection of the small stuff that makes up the majority of my midge box.

Blue Wing Paradun

Griffith’s Gnat

CDC Emerger/Chironomid (Shuttlecock Buzzer)

Sparkle Midge

Micro Emergers

Bead Head Pheasant Tail Nymph (Variant)

Micro Copper John

Andy Baird’s #32 Spent Spinner

Further Information

Books

For further reading on the tying and fishing of small flies, there are no better books out there on the subject, than those from the master of the small fly; Mr Ed Engle. These books are, simply put, the ‘Bibles’ of small fly/midge fishing.

• Tying Small Flies, Ed Engle (ESBN: 0811700828)
• Fishing Small Flies, Ed Engle (ESBN: 0811701247)

Alternatively, and for more information on the man himself, you can visit Ed’s website via www.edengleflyfishing.com.

Online

A website that continues to inspire my tying is Andy Baird’s Small Fly Funk; an incredible website which offers us mere mortals an insight into the world of micro-tying with exceptional writing, photographs, and patterns. Not only is this one of the best blogs on the internet, it is a shining beacon and leader of all things ‘midge’. Small Fly Funk is a true gem of a website and worth visiting on a regular basis. I can’t recommend it enough!

Specialist Fly Tying Stockists

Tying-wise, I firmly (and whole-heartedly) recommend the following individuals and companies for sourcing your materials. They stock the high quality and specialist micro materials needed in order to tie small flies effectively (listed in alphabetical order). I have my own personal favourites in the list, but I’ll leave you choose you’re own. Either way, you won’t find better stockists anywhere.

• Celtic Fly Craft
• Cookshill Fly Tying
• Fly Tek Fly Fishing
• Fly Tying Boutique
• Lakeland Fly Tying
• Niche Products

Most of my fishing year is spent on tributaries and small streams where the opportunistic trout will violently take a large bushy dry, but forcing yourself to fish with such small patterns is quite refreshing. They work in the correct situation, it’s as simple as that; but then, the proof’s in the pudding I suppose…

Micro Copper John (#20)

Blue Wing Paradun (#24)

CDC Emerger (#24)

Micro Copper John (#20)

Sparkle Midge (#26)